Santa Espuma Yana "Negra" Porter

Name: Yana Porter ("Negra")

Served at: Santa Espuma 

Brewer: Santa Espuma

Type: (Style / mode of delivery) English style porter, draft

ABV: 4.5%

Label (5): label not available, 2 based on branding of bar

Look-Cs (color, clarity, carbonation, cap, and constancy) (20): 12

Snout (15): 11

Texture (20): 17

Flavor (30): 20

X-Factor (10): 6

Total: 68

If this beer were a saint, it would be Saint Arnold of Metz -- known for ending a plague when he dunked his crucifix in a brew kettle, called it "blessed" and persuaded the masses to drink only from that kettle.

Ya gotta have faith

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"Don't drink the water, drink beer."

-Saint Arnold of Metz (580 - 640 AD)

"But would you really want a Guinness on the beach?" is the common refrain I hear when discussing my love for dark beer and disdain for the cheap mass-produced lagers typical of South America. I am usually midway through my fantasy of sipping a Bell's Expedition Stout while watching the sun glide into the Pacific, so I mumble in agreement, adding that when served very cold and michelada* these beers are indeed a refreshing substitute for water.

No hot surfers here

In order to avoid further interrupting my daydream, I fail to point out what is conspicuously missing from their line of argument-- South America is not one big beach. There are many sizeable cities and towns where much of the year can be quite chilly and rainy. My two week return to Quito was a reminder of this simple fact. 

My gracious hostess suggested Santa Espuma as a step up from the Turtle's Head, so on a drizzly night we hopped a short cab ride to the neighborhood of La Floresta to imbibe. Positioning ourselves strategically between a vista of dusky downtown Quito and the illuminated kegs showcased behind paned glass, we listened to our charmless server unenthusiastically list the three beer options: a negra (porter), rubia (wheat) and roja (amber).

While the foam on my negra lasted, it was not quite as heavenly as the name implies. However, the thick mouthfeel of the beer was the most divine phenomenon in the entire restaurant. 

The chocolately stout served as a much needed antidote to the rain and to too many days ended with lukewarm Pilsener. The beer was dark and dense, flashing a mahogany hue through the candlelight. The nose was milk chocolately sweet with some roast. The taste was a bit less sweet than the nose, and while the mocha like flavors hit hard in the beginning, they did not linger or evolve as much as I would have liked. 

Perhaps it was the surly service, or the nearly empty dining room, but the ambiance of the place was a bit lacking. While the beautiful views, fireplace, and visible brewing system offered a solid aesthetic base, the bar exuded a sense of confusion or lost direction. To be fair, Santa Espuma would not be the last place where I felt  the texture of an otherwise lovely room in Quito dominated by a sense of bewilderment. 

*Michelada has different meanings based on region. The most basic take, and that which I've seen most often served in the Andean region of South America simply means beer with lime juice and salt. Tabasco, clamato juice, and Worcestershire are all popular additions as well. 

Cerveza Negra (according to Quito)

Name: Cerveza Negra

Served at: Turtle's Head Pub, Quito, Ecuador

Brewer: House brew

Type: (Style / mode of delivery) English Stout; draft served in pint glass

ABV: 5%

Label (5): n/a -- not marketed in bottles -- 3 (based on aesthetics of menu and bar)

Look-Cs (color, clarity, carbonation, cap, and constancy) (20): 14

Snout (15): 12

Texture (20): 12

Flavor (30): 17

X-Factor (10): 8

Total: 66

If this beer were a turtle, it would be Lonesome George-- a little too aloof for everyone's good.

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My ongoing quest for new dark beers in South America has forced me to swallow just as much pride as bad lager, and push anything resembling Tom Friedman-esque thoughts deep into the Jersey Shore of my brain, also known as my misguided subconscious ("I am drinking an English-style brew in a Scottish-style bar in Quito served to me by a young Russian, sitting on a stool made in China while listening to a hopelessly sincere Sri Lankan sing avant-garde electro-pop, and eavesdropping on an Australian's opinions on Uganda. Ouch, the stool just broke due to my uniquely American obesity and weighty observations on globalization. Yay NAFTA!").

I had heard from a friend that deep in Gringolandia (La Mariscal) near the Marriott hotel, there was a "British" (Scottish) bar (now Ecuadorean-owned) by the name of "The Turtle's Head" which had fine craft beers, futbol on the TVs, a fireplace to warm up from Quito's rains, and a solid expat crowd to relax with. I figured this would be the ideal spot to watch the Tea Party stick some old wrinkly sticky ideas in the drooling mouths of the sleeping American public during the November 2010 midterm elections. While the election turned out pretty much as I expected, the existence of a cerveza negra or stout, on the menu was a welcome surprise. 

Cerveza Negra at the Turtle's Head

The snout on this stout may have been its biggest wonder-- it was delightfully roasty with notes resembling popcorn. The carbonation was lacking a smidge, and the cap quickly dissipated into a ring clinging to the edges of the glass. The beer had staying power though, like a 9-minute long James Brown song, and continued to please and enlighten throughout the heartbreak that was the midterms. 

It was a dark amber, and was easily translucent through a bit of candlelight, or held next to the fireplace. The texture was average, and there was not much to be gleamed from the beer warming up. It was definitely a stout: bitter and dry. There was nothing wildly different or new about this stout compared to others I've tried in South America. It seemed very basic. Technically sound but stylistically lacking. It fit the profile well, but did not seem to be trying to do much more than fulfill my craving for a dark beer. 

Finding a craft dark beer in Quito was certainly unexpected, but much like one of Lonesome George's suitors, I was left wanting a bit more.

Alta Negra Stout

Name: Alta Negra Stout

Served at: Unknown bar, Popayán, Colombia

Brewer: Ciudad Blanca ("White City")

Type: (Style / mode of delivery) Oatmeal Stout; bottle poured into pint glass

ABV: 4%

Label (5): 3

Look-Cs (color, clarity, carbonation, cap, and constancy) (20): 14

Snout (15): 12

Texture (20): 14

Flavor (30): 21

X-Factor (10): 9

Total: 73

If this stout were a close call, then it would be an escape from the rain. 

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Black and white/dark and light seemed to be the running theme in Popáyan

After spending 14 hours on a bus veering around Colombian coffee country's gorgeous and precarious curves, I was in absolute awe when I spotted an empty bottle of "Alta Negra Stout" near the front desk of the hostel I would be calling home for the next two short days. I soon learned that Popayán, the first city of gastronomy according to UNESCO, boasted their own craft brewery.  I was too tired to hide my delight, but soon discovered that the stopover had run dry, and was directed to a liquor store around the corner. I set out despite the night rain, and traipsed from one pale street to the next searching for a liquor or corner store which stocked the brew. I finally gave up for the evening, comforting myself with the knowledge that an oatmeal stout is a perfectly appropriate breakfast drink.

Empanada de pipián

The following day provided ample magic and beauty to distract me from my beer quest, as I stumbled upon a parade in the main plaza and filled my afternoon with hikes to choice lookouts and the empanadas de pipián required to fuel them. While waiting out a late afternoon rainstorm, I chatted up a young Austrian lady and convinced her to join me in my quest to locate Alta brewery. 

Alta Negra Stout

The brewery was closed, but we managed to duck into a dark but friendly bar, where they happened to have Alta Negra by the bottle. My drinking companion was just as impressed by the stout as I was, noting its creamy texture. The beer had a floral almost stinging snout with hints of cinnamon and dark chocolate. The carbonation was near-perfect, and the cap maintained a thin ring of white foam throughout drinking. As the beer warmed slowly, its roasty coffee and vanilla flavors more fully expressed themselves leaving a fruitier lingering taste than most stouts. It was the creamiest, smoothest beer I have had in South America. 

The gastronomic capital of Colombia impressed on many levels, but the dark beer of the White City was the most magnificent highlight. 

Cerveza Negra (Cartagena's take)

Name: Cerveza Negra

Served at: La Casa de la Cerveza, Cartagena, Colombia

Brewer: Said to be a house brew

Type: (Style / mode of delivery) Stout/porter; draft served in tall glass

ABV: Unknown; est. 5.0%

Label (5): n/a -- not be marketed in bottles -- 2 (based on aesthetics of menu and bar)

Look-Cs (color, clarity, carbonation, cap, and constancy) (20): 14

Snout (15): 9

Texture (20): 12

Flavor (30): 18

X-Factor (10): 9

Total: 64

If this beer were a seabird it would be a frigate -- a dark silhouette gliding at sunset, with an enticing call.

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Cerveza Negra at Casa de La Cerveza

I sampled this beer several times over the course of a month spent in Cartagena's Old City. The bar, La Casa de la Cerveza, located in the neighborhood known as Getsemani, features panoramic views of Cartagena's burgeoning skyline, through defunct gun emplacements, where heavy cannon had once defended the Spanish colony from seaborne incursions. La Casa de la Cerveza is, ostensibly, an upscale, outdoor dance club and lounge, but also features a surprising array of solid beers, and its Cerveza Negra surprised me with the basic, upstanding qualities of a straightforward drinkable stout or porter.

Whether the beer took time to pour (as with a Guinness) or whether the service was routinely slow (a possibility) the beer nevertheless arrived most times with a full, black body sitting beneath two or three fingers of creamy foam. The Cerveza Negra seemed chalky plain at first whiff, a good sign, and then the first full sip, in which some of the foam bubbled off on my top lip, rewarded me with the plain, respectable character of a well brewed, low alcohol stout: mild roast, friendly character, and subtle bitterness. And yet, there was something extra. The waitress told us that the beer was brewed with Kahlua, the coffee-flavored liqueur, and whether that was true, or not, there was the presence of another ingredient that fit with the general palette of a stout -- elements such as coffee, chocolate, pumpernickel, and so forth.

Even though the beer featured a bit less effervescence than, say, Club Colombia, one of the more popular mainstays of the lager-dominated Colombian beer market, the Cerveza Negra did not wilt, even in the muggy, oppressive heat of Cartagena's rainy season. As night fell, the lightning would begin to flash inland  or along the coast and as my (favorite drinking) companion and I would reach for our slender, perspiring glasses, and be rewarded, even after some time had passed from the moment of the beer's delivery, with a soulful gulp. It may be that the beer's mysterious ingredient, in the late stages of swilling, would turn a bit sour, but that was a minor complaint, and had to be considered in the context of the town's climate.

Cartagena, a major tourist destination, oftentimes seemed (much like most Colombian beers) a little "Colombia-lite" for my tastes. It was the devastating heat, explorations outside the Old City, and the dark and fascinating history which provided me with a deep respect and admiration for the place. Investing in this beer, like I invested in the city, was well worth the effort.

 

Old City at sunset

At first taste, the beer did not offer too many layers or textures, and many ample pours could, therefore, be consumed in a night of stifling heat. The heat and rapidly changing temperature of the beer highlighted some new textures that would have otherwise been unrecognizable. As the DJ sampled American pop mashed up with the crooning and thumping unique to the Southern Hemisphere, the lightning drew closer, and with the first drops patting the low, wooden tables, the handful of guests began to head for the tent, or for the shelter of a quieter bar or restaurant in the overpriced Old Town or appropriately energetic San Diego neighborhood. The streets would flood, but even in the grungiest parts of town, there was a charming power to the rain. Hence, the high X-Factor -- a couple of Colombian dark beers sloshing around in our bellies -- in a town that has for many years been a gateway to the secrets and dramas of the Southland interior. 

A fine discovery in a country that doesn't feature many dark beers.

Colón Negra

Name: Colón Negra
 

Brewer: Palos De Moguer

Type: (Style / mode of delivery): English Brown Ale; Draft

ABV: 5%

Label (5): 2

Look-Cs (color, clarity, carbonation, cap, and constancy) (20): 10

Snout (15): 10

Texture (20): 9

Flavor (30): 20

X-Factor (10): 8

TOTAL: 59

If this stout English Brown Ale were a thrift store find, then it would be the perfect sweater, albeit a bit pilly. 

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Shortly after I started this blog, I decided leave the USA, and its emerging beer renaissance, in order to travel around South America for six months. I knew that light pilsner style beers would be the dominant players at the bar, and I assumed I would be lucky to find an overpriced Guinness at only the most tourist-infested spot. 

Colón Negra at El Paso

A bit of pre-trip anxiety led me to stumble across the site of Bogota Beer Company, and their Usaquén Stout (which I later found to be of limited edition). However, upon arrival, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that my neighborhood bar had Colón Negra on draft. Pub culture is growing in Bogotá, and both Colombia and Argentina have seen a growth in home brewing and an interest in craft beers. Once I make it down to Argentina, I will write more extensively on this topic.

At first glance and taste, it seemed incredibly close to a porter. The brewery has branded it as an English Brown Ale, which is appropriate, as a porter would require a tad more substance. That said, in a land of bland, tasteless lagers, this was an exceptional find, and I quickly became a regular.

Colón produces Colón Light, Colón Roja, Colón Rubia, and Colón Negra. These artisanal beers all have a similar themed, boring label, with the background color changing for each individual style. 

The color is a deep and pretty mahogany, but is translucent. The tan cap dissipates after awhile, but leaves behind light lacing.

The crisp snout was strong on licorice, with sweet and roasty undertones. The taste differed significantly from the scent, the beer ended up being considerably more bitter than expected, and lingers into a roasty, caramelized aftertaste. The texture is smooth, but ultimately a bit too thin and watery for my taste (and the clearest indication that this is not a porter).

This brew seemed to taste better every time I went back. A major part of the enjoyment of food and drink is the company you happen to share the moment with. This beer's best feature was not found in the pint glass, but usually in the stool beside me. 

BBC Chapinero Porter

Church in Chapinero

Name: Chapinero Porter

Brewer: Bogotá Beer Company

Type: (Style / mode of delivery) English style porter; Draft, bottle

ABV: 5%

Label (5): 4: 

Look-Cs (20): 14

Snout (15): 10

Texture (20): 13

Flavor (30): 21

X-Factor (10): 9

TOTAL: 71

If this stout were a neighborhood in Bogotá, then it would absolutely be Chapinero. 

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Bogotá Beer Company was started eight years ago, as two craft brewers decided to found their own pubs, in which they could then sling their beers. They now operate ten pubs throughout Bogotá, and draw large crowds of beer lovers. Co-owner and co-founder Berny Silberwasser explained that he saw a niche in a market monopolized by Bavaria, and as he traveled the world tasting more beers, he wanted to bring better options to Colombia. BBC is certainly the most recognizable microbrewery in Colombia, if not all of South America. 

In a sea of watery pilsner style brews, the artisanal beers from BBC offer a welcome reprieve. While their Usaquén Stout was produced in a limited edition, unavailable to me, I was pleased to have the opportunity to sample the Chapinero Porter -- an English style porter that easily matches the quality of the top craft porters in the States, beers such as Edmund Fitzgerald Porter, Anchor Porter, and Smuttynose Robust Porter. Named after a dynamic neighborhood in Bogotá, Chapinero lives up to its name -- robust, complex, and increasingly pleasant. 

"We take no shortcuts," Berny stated, highlighting constant investment in equipment, recipes, training from top brewmasters, and quality control. The complexity and flavor reflects this labor of love.

The label on the bottled version is classic and clean, reflecting the aesthetics of the pub. The beer pours in a deep mahogany, but translucent. The draft version has a gorgeous cascade, forming a thick white cap which persists throughout drinking. The aroma was a bit light, but strongly malty with some fruity essence -- similar to the Edmund Fitzgerald Porter.

A creamy, smooth texture is complimented by chocolately, yet pleasantly bitter flavors. There is sufficient smoke, with a creamy and malty flavor ending in a strongly bitter finish. An ideal drink for a rainy Bogotá afternoon. 

Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout

Name: Ø Imperial Stout

Brewer: Nøgne Ø (Norway)

Type: Russian Imperial Stout / 750 ml bottle & draft

ABV: 9%

Label: 4

Look-Cs: 16 

Snout: 12

Texture: 19

Flavor: 23

X-Factor: 6

TOTAL: 80

If this stout were a diva, then it would be Nina Simone.

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"There lived a remarkably grizzled man on the uttermost, barren isle/ he never harmed, in the wide world's span, a soul by deceit or by guile..."

Henrik Ibsen

So begins the poem "Terje Vigen" by the famous Norwegian poet and playwright, Henrik Ibsen. The poem, based on a true character, tells the story of scrappy Terje, who, while suffering through the English blockade of Norway in 1809 during the Napoleonic Wars, decides to row through the blockade in an open boat in order to reach Denmark, and bring back food for his starving family. 

Nøgne Ø means "barren isle" in English, and Terje Vigen's story of courage serves as a source of inspiration for the founding brewers. Indeed, the story of the first craft brewer in Norway is one of blind courage, bordering on stupidity. 

Two home brewers decided to start a brewery with virtually no money and limited experience. They cobbled together a group of volunteers who helped them with branding, and with constructing the brewery. When they first began brewing, Norway did not have a craft beer culture -- Imperial Stouts, Porters, and IPAs simply did not exist in Norway. Much like Terje, these men were battling against tough odds.

The brand building of Ø: successful Norwegian design

The challenge took its toll on everyone involved in the project -- people came and went, friendships dissolved, and constant drama surrounded the brewery. After several years, a serious investor stepped in, which allowed the brewery to make the necessary changes and begin to grow. In the last few years, Norway's beer culture has changed, and many credit part of this transformation to Nøgne Ø.

This leathery, Norwegian defiance is not unique to brewmasters and everyday scamps. It also arose, importantly, in and around the time of the Nazi invasion of the country, in 1940, a significant foray intended, in part, to capture the country's supply of heavy water, or deuterium oxide. The material was then an important component in the construction of atomic weapons, and the Wehrmacht must've coveted a supply so near to home. By fits and starts, the allies -- including participation by French, British, American, and underground Norwegian forces -- alternatively transported some of the heavy water to freedom; attacked the manufacturing facility with commandoes; bombed the facility with aircraft; and once the facility had been destroyed, sank a German ferry that had attempted to spirit the remainder of the material back to Germany, to assist with the Nazi weapons program. This endeavor, known as the Norwegian Heavy Water Sabotage, took more than three years to accomplish.

While Nøgne does not brews its Ø Imperial Stout with heavy water, still the ruggedness of the two stories -- Terje Vigen's rowing and the combined effort to thwart the Nazis -- informs the character of this stout.

The beer pours viscous and dark. The cap is a bit on the thin side, but the lacing is good -- it leaves behind a beautiful lattice of foam. The natural carbonation derived from bottle conditioning is decent. This is a thick beer.

The snout on Ø was impressive -- coffee, chocolate and caramel were all present, but there was also a dark fruit, almost floral scent as well. There was a strong savory component-- much like pumpernickel or a fresh soft pretzel. 

The texture is the highlight of this beer. The foam clings to bottle it was served from, and stays there long after the beer was poured. There are layers of thickness in this beer -- the texture swims in the beer. The mouthfeel serves as a guide to help you discover new flavors as you continue to drink. This beer is constantly reinventing itself.

Although this beer is a high alcohol beer, the alcohol does not dominate the taste. It's a bit on the sweet side, with a malty, roasty, and strong vanilla flavor throughout the drinking process.

There is something in that Grimstad water.