Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout

Name: Ø Imperial Stout

Brewer: Nøgne Ø (Norway)

Type: Russian Imperial Stout / 750 ml bottle & draft

ABV: 9%

Label: 4

Look-Cs: 16 

Snout: 12

Texture: 19

Flavor: 23

X-Factor: 6

TOTAL: 80

If this stout were a diva, then it would be Nina Simone.

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"There lived a remarkably grizzled man on the uttermost, barren isle/ he never harmed, in the wide world's span, a soul by deceit or by guile..."

Henrik Ibsen

So begins the poem "Terje Vigen" by the famous Norwegian poet and playwright, Henrik Ibsen. The poem, based on a true character, tells the story of scrappy Terje, who, while suffering through the English blockade of Norway in 1809 during the Napoleonic Wars, decides to row through the blockade in an open boat in order to reach Denmark, and bring back food for his starving family. 

Nøgne Ø means "barren isle" in English, and Terje Vigen's story of courage serves as a source of inspiration for the founding brewers. Indeed, the story of the first craft brewer in Norway is one of blind courage, bordering on stupidity. 

Two home brewers decided to start a brewery with virtually no money and limited experience. They cobbled together a group of volunteers who helped them with branding, and with constructing the brewery. When they first began brewing, Norway did not have a craft beer culture -- Imperial Stouts, Porters, and IPAs simply did not exist in Norway. Much like Terje, these men were battling against tough odds.

The brand building of Ø: successful Norwegian design

The challenge took its toll on everyone involved in the project -- people came and went, friendships dissolved, and constant drama surrounded the brewery. After several years, a serious investor stepped in, which allowed the brewery to make the necessary changes and begin to grow. In the last few years, Norway's beer culture has changed, and many credit part of this transformation to Nøgne Ø.

This leathery, Norwegian defiance is not unique to brewmasters and everyday scamps. It also arose, importantly, in and around the time of the Nazi invasion of the country, in 1940, a significant foray intended, in part, to capture the country's supply of heavy water, or deuterium oxide. The material was then an important component in the construction of atomic weapons, and the Wehrmacht must've coveted a supply so near to home. By fits and starts, the allies -- including participation by French, British, American, and underground Norwegian forces -- alternatively transported some of the heavy water to freedom; attacked the manufacturing facility with commandoes; bombed the facility with aircraft; and once the facility had been destroyed, sank a German ferry that had attempted to spirit the remainder of the material back to Germany, to assist with the Nazi weapons program. This endeavor, known as the Norwegian Heavy Water Sabotage, took more than three years to accomplish.

While Nøgne does not brews its Ø Imperial Stout with heavy water, still the ruggedness of the two stories -- Terje Vigen's rowing and the combined effort to thwart the Nazis -- informs the character of this stout.

The beer pours viscous and dark. The cap is a bit on the thin side, but the lacing is good -- it leaves behind a beautiful lattice of foam. The natural carbonation derived from bottle conditioning is decent. This is a thick beer.

The snout on Ø was impressive -- coffee, chocolate and caramel were all present, but there was also a dark fruit, almost floral scent as well. There was a strong savory component-- much like pumpernickel or a fresh soft pretzel. 

The texture is the highlight of this beer. The foam clings to bottle it was served from, and stays there long after the beer was poured. There are layers of thickness in this beer -- the texture swims in the beer. The mouthfeel serves as a guide to help you discover new flavors as you continue to drink. This beer is constantly reinventing itself.

Although this beer is a high alcohol beer, the alcohol does not dominate the taste. It's a bit on the sweet side, with a malty, roasty, and strong vanilla flavor throughout the drinking process.

There is something in that Grimstad water.